Mar 132010
I recently got a gaf anscomatic s/86 and would like to create a film. I would like to know anything you guys have to say about super 8 film making. About projectors? Black and white/color Film? Processing? I also need a manual for my camera and have looked online but only found manuals on sale for $18. Anybody know where to get a free manual for it?
I’m not familiar with your particular camera, but you can order Super-8 film online. Try Dwayne’s Photo in Parsons, Kansas. They sell and develop 8mm, 16mm, and Super-8 movie film.
http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/
Go to the top of the page, where it says “order forms” and then go to “Movie Film” to get forms which you can print and mail to them to order film or processing.
I found another place, called “Spectra Film and Video” in Hollywood, California.
http://www.spectrafilmandvideo.com/Film.html
But there are a lot of other places where you can order Super-8 film. You just have to look online. Do a search on Google.
As far as projectors, you’ll need one that specifically says that it can play Super-8 movies. There is another kind of 8mm film, called “Regular 8mm” or sometimes “Double-Run 8.” Regular 8mm and Super-8 are NOT compatible. The frame size and sprockets are different. So if you have a Super-8 camera, then you need to be sure that you get a projector that is for Super-8. Although there are some kind of projectors that can play both Regular 8mm and Super-8.
Look on eBay, and in antique shops and thrift shops. You should be able to find a projector on eBay for fairly cheap, although the shipping will probably be kind of expensive.
One other thing about projectors. If possible, avoid getting “auto load” projectors…the kind where it automatically threads the film. Those are horrible. They have problems with jamming and it will eat your film. Just find a better quality projector where you manually load the film yourself.
There are several different kinds of film available, in color and B&W. Ektachrome 100D is a good color film. I’ve used it in Regular 8mm size, but it’s also available in Super-8. It’s a “daylight balanced” film which means that it’s made for shooting outdoors. Ektachrome 64T is another color film that’s available in Super-8. But I think it’s tungsten balance. “Tungsten Balanced” means that the film is color balanced for shooting indoors with incandescant lighting. If you shoot it outdoors, you will need to use an orange filter (sometimes called an 81A or “warming” filter) or otherwise the movie will have kind of a bluish tint. I think most Super-8 cameras have a built-in filter, which you can use by pressing a button or switch.
That’s all I can think of for now. You should also try Regular 8mm film. It’s a spool type film, and it works with older cameras. Regular 8mm cameras actually tend to be much better made than Super-8 cameras…most of them are all-metal, and are built much more solid. (Super-8 cameras tend to be really “plasticky”)
Here’s one of my favorite Regular 8mm cameras, the Bolex K2:
http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras/k2.html
I have a pretty big collection of antique 8mm cameras, and I’ve shot about 6 rolls of film so far. I do have one Super-8 camera, but I haven’t used it yet.
Gateway’s camera and projector info was excellent, so I’ll leave it at that.
You also asked about making the film. After you’ve practiced a bit and shot some film and thus gotten the hang of it, you’llwant to make a movie. In film school, the profs had us all start with a “process documentary” film. This was a good idea, because the process imposed a narrative structure without us having to come up with a story, and all the things you need to support filming a narrative. So, first, decide what you want to shoot: Examples:
Your buddy rebuilding his bike/motorcycle/car.
Construction of something
How to skateboard well-including fancy jumps and such.
Something that has a definite beginning, middle and end. Pick something you really like and know how to do well.
Then, develop the shot list and storyboard. A storyboard is a series of pictures drawn on 3×5 cards that represent every shot that will be in the film. Putting them on cards allows you to change the order easily. Alfred Hitchcock and Akira Kurasowa storyboarded their films so completely they both were known to sleep during the actual filming. Kurasowa’s were so beautifully done that the frames are sold as individual pieces of art. These are the movie on paper.
Once you have the storyboard done, write out the shot list.
From the shot list figure out certain things: Where and when will you shoot this?
What lights will you need? Try to shoot in daylight and use reflectors. Bringing lights into it complicates things but if you have to use lights in daylight you will need to put gels over the lights (CTO-color temperature orange. See what I mean: complicates things quick. For now, keep it simple.)
If you shoot inside use tungsten lights and tungsten film. Practice with a roll or two before you shoot the movie.
How many shoots will you need to do the movie? Usually you will need more than one shoot to get all the footage you need. Take your time and understand each step of the process and document it thoroughly. At this point you will probably discover or remember things you missed when storyboarding so shoot this too! (Everyone does!)
How long will the finished film be? Usually the ratio of shot film to final cut is 4:1, which means you’ll shoot four times as much film as you will end up with on the finished product.
Before you shoot the film, you should put some thought into editing – you can cut the film itself or transfer it to video/dvd and cut it on the computer. The computer is probably the most economical choice in the long run. It will also make putting sound on soooooo much easier, as well as making copies for distribution to your friends and family.
If you choose to cut the film, you should have workprints made of the original footage and run that through the projector and editor. (Ebay has 3 listed today – be sure it will cut Super 8, not just regular 8.) Using a workprint saves the original from damage. When you are happy with the cut, you then cut the original to conform to the workprint. I don’t remember Super 8 having edge #’s like 16 and 35mm do, ask about this at the lab.
If you decide to do a narrative (story) do all the above, but you will also need to figure out:
actors, costumes, props, locations, food for crew and actors (its a long day, making a film!). Until you get the hang of it, keep it simple and focus on things you enjoy. You can also do nature films which don’t require all the extra people.
Don’t worry about it if the film doesn’t come out perfect. Nobody’s first film ever does. The point is to learn and, most of all: Have lots of fun!